Lewis and Clark - Kansas Journal Entries
Kansas Journal Entries
The Journals of the Lewis & Clark Expedition
August 30, 1803 - August 24, 1804
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The Journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition as well as information about the provenance and location of the original journals.
The following text does not include the sextant readings. There were usually two parts to each journal entry by Lewis or Clark. One is a narrative text describing the day's events: the other gives the course of travel and distance covered for the day, which the captains usually called "courses, distances, and references."
Westward journey through Kansas
Eastward return through Kansas
at the mouth of the River Kansies
June 26" 27" & 29th-
This river is 366 miles above the mouth of the Missouri it is in Lattitude 38° 31' 13" North
it is 230 yds. wide at its mouth & wider above from the point up the Missourie for about 3 ms. N. 21° W, Down the Middle of the Missourie is S. 32° E, up the upper bank of the Kansais, is S. 54° E the river turns to the East above a pt. of high land, well Situated for a fort & in view of the Missouris one mile up & on the upper Side, the width of the Missouris at this place is about 500 yds.
Missourie Water weighs 78. The Kanseis weghs 72 river Miss[ouri] raised in the time at the Kanseis 2 foot and begun to fall.
The wood land on each side of the Mouth of this river is extensive and of a good quallity as far as our hunters was back, but badly watered with Springs, only two being Seen by them
Some punishment of two men Hall & Collins for takeing whiskey out of the Barrel last night [Ed: see Detachment Order of June 29] agreeable to the Sentences of a Court Mtl of the party who we have always found verry ready to punish Such Crimes-
Many Deer Killed to day
Allarm post or order of Battle arms to be Situated & the Duty &c.
Messes of men under a Serjiant who is to detail for every day one man of his Squad to Cook &c. who Shall have the management of the provisions dureing that day or issue, each Days rations must be divided &c. &c
Order of encampment, Tents, fires & Duty
Signals &c &c.
30th June, Set out verry early this Morng Saw a verry large wolf [blank] on the Sand bar this morning walking near a gange of Turkeys (1) at 10 miles above the Kansis passed the mouth of a Small River Call the (Petite Plate) or the little Shole river, this river is about 70 yds. Wide and has Several rapids & falls, well Calculatd for mills, the land on this river is Said to be Roaling, Killed 2 Deer Bucks Swinging [swimming] the river the wind from the S. W. here we opened the Bag of Bread given us by [blank] which we found verry good, our Bacon which was given us by [blank] we examined and found Sound and good Some of that purchased in the Illinois Spoiled, [I found] a relish of this old bacon this morning was verry agreeable, Deer to be Seen in every direction and their tracks ar as plenty as Hogs about a farm, our hunts. Killed 9 Deer to day the land below the last river is good, that above, between the two rivers which is near together is Slaik'y and bad on the N. Side, the other Side is good land, Landed on the L. S. below an Isd called Dimond Island
(Pot. Obst. No. 15.)
Saturday June 30th
On the Larboard Shore ¾ of a mile below the Little river Platte.-
Observed time and distance of 's and 's nearest limbs; the East with Sext. & Chrontr.
30th June Satturday 1804
Set out verry early this morning, a verry large wolf Came to the bank and looked at us this morning, passd the (1) mouth of a Small river 10 ms. above the Kanseis Called by the french Petite River Platte (or Shoal river) from the number of falls in it, this river is about 60 yards wide at its mouth and runs Parrilel with the Missouries for ten or twelve miles, [I am] [NB: (Some of the party who went up] told that the lands on this Small river is good, and on its Several falls well Calculated for mills, the wind from S. W. came to at 12 oClock & rested three hours, the [sun or day?] being hot the men becom verry feeble, Farnsts. Thermometer at 3 oClock Stood at 96° above 0, emence numbs. of Deer on the banks, Skipping in every derection, the party Killed nine Bucks on the river & Bank to day, The Countrey on the S. S. between the Shoal River & Missouris is indifferent Subject to overflow, that below and on the L. S. is high & appers well timbered, Camped on the L. S. opsd. the Lower point of a Isd. Called diamond Island, Broke our mast
Saturday June 30th 1804, we Set out eairly proceeded on Saw a verry large woolf on the sand beach this morning at 10 miles from or above the Kansis passed the mouth of a Small River called Petete platt R. or little Shole river, this river is about 50 yd. wide and has Several Rapids & falls, well calculated for mills, the Land on this River is Said to be roaling the men killed 2 Deer Swimming the River. The hunters killed 7 Deer the most of them were bucks. we broke our mast comming to Shore against a Small Tree which hung over the River. came about 10 miles this day camped on the South Side of the Missouris,
Saturday June 30th 1804 Set our verry early this morning Saw a wolf on the Sind Bare passed the Littel River platte on the N. Side it is about 100 yards wide Clear water High Land on the Loer Side of it on this River it is Sayed that thare is a nomber of falls on it fitting for mills the land is Rolling campt on the South Side the Land is Low that on the N is the Same.
Saturday 30th. The day was clear and we continued our voyage; found high land on both sides of the river; and passed a large creek on the north side, called Platt, fifty yards wide. We broke our mast and encamped on the south side, where there were the most signs of game I ever saw.
Saterday 30 Got on our way at day light the water Was Strong the land high on Each Side the deer was plentifull on the Sand beech as we passd along all sorts of fowls likeway the woolves and Bears Every day Roed 12 Miles-
June 30th Saturday This morning at day light we embark'd and proceeded on our Voyage, found the current setting strong against us, The land on both sides of the River lies high, We perceived the Deer in abundance on the Land beaches, as we passed along, likewise Bears & Wolves, and abundance of Wild fowl. we encamped on the Bank of the River, having rowed 12 Miles this day-
Weather, June 1804
[Lewis and Clark]
[Weather, June 1804]
10h rasberreis perple, ripe and abundant,
11h many small bird are now setting some have young, the whiper-will setting
16 June the wood duck now has it's young, this duck is abundant, andexcept one Solatary Pelican and a few gees these ducks werethe only aquatic fowls we have yet seen
July 1st 1804, last night one of the Sentinals Chang'd [challenged] either a man or Beast, which run off, all prepared for action, Set out early passed the Dimond Isd. pass a Small Creek on the L. S. as this Creek is without name we Call it Biscuit Creek Brackfast on the upper point of a Sand beech, The river still falling a little a verry warm Day. I took Some medison last night which has worked me very much party all in helth except Boils-
passed a Sand bar in the river above the Isd. Covered for a me. with Drift Wood, Came to Capt Lewis took Medn. altitude & we delayed three hours, the day being excessively hot, Turkeys are plenty on the Shore, [Some of the men] G. Drewyer inform that he Saw PueCanns [pecan] Trees on S. S. yesterday great quantities of raspburies an Grapes, (2) pass a Creek on the L. S. called remore (Tree Frog) Creek, an Isd above in the Mid: and [a Pond on] 2 Willow Isds on the S. S. all of the Same name; The two Willow Isds. has been made within 3 years & the Main Chanl. runs now on the L S. of the large Island where there was no running wate[r] at low water from this Island the range of Hills up the river to the N, W, pass a run on the L. S. a Butifull extensive Prarie, Two Islands just above Called (Isles des Parques) or Field Islands, those Islands are, one of our French hands tels me that the French intended to Settle here once & brought their Cows and put them on those Islands, Mr Mackey Says the first village of the Kanseis was a little above this Island & made use of as fields, no trace of anything of that Kind remains to be Seen on the Isds. fine Land on the L. Side, Hills near the river all day, Camped on the lower pot. of 1st Isd.-
(Image not available due to copyright restrictions.)
July 1st, Sunday 1804
a Small allarm last night all prepared for action, Set out early this morning passed on the North Side of Dimond Island, a Small Creek mouths opposit I call Biscuit Creek,- a large sand bar in the middle of the river 1½ ms. above the Isd. Covered with Drift wood. river fall a little. The wind from S. W. Came to above this Drift and delayed three hours to refresh the men who were verry much over powered with the heat, Great quantity of Grapes & raspberries, (2) passed a Small Creek on the L. S. below one large and two small Islands. This Creek and Isds. are Called Remore (or Tree Frog) a large Pond on the S. S., the main Current of Water run'g on the L. S. of the Island, I am told that Three years ago the main Current run on the S. S. of the Island and no appearance of the two Smaller Islands, Camped on the lower point of one of the two large & 2 Small Isds. Called Isles des Parques or field Islds a high butifull Prarie on the L. S. one of the french hands Says "that the french Kept their Cattle & horses on those Islands at the time they had in this quarter a fort & trading establishment.["]
paecaun Trees Seen on the S. S. Deer and turkeys in great quantities on the bank
(Point Obstn. No. 16.)
Sunday July 1st
On the Larboard shore one ½ miles above the upper point of the dimond Island.
Observed Meridian Altd. of 's L. L. with Octant by the back obstn. 36° 59' 30"
Latitude deduced from this obstn. 39° 9' 38.6"
Sunday July 1st 1804. we Set out at Sun rise passed a Small Creek which we call Bisquet Creek on the South Side of the Missouris, we passed a Sand barr in the river which was covered for a mile with Drift wood, the Day is exceding hot. So we Stoped at 12 oClock & Delayed about 3 hours to rest in the heat of the day, high land on the South Side fine Bottom on the North Side of Missouris, we came to a high prarie on the South Side. we Camped after Comming about 10 or 12 miles, on the North Side of the Missouris. passed Several Islands in course of the Day
Sunday July 1th 1804 Set out Clear day passed Small Creek on the South Side Called Biscuit C. High Land passed a Creek on the S. Side Called Frog Tree Creek a Pond on the N S. Called the Same name Good water made 12½ miles Campt on an Isd. near the South Side ouer Flanken party Did not Join us Last evning.
Sunday 1st July, 1804. We set out at five in the morning, and having advanced 12 miles, encamped on an island opposite a prairie on the south side of the river.
Sunday July 1st We embarked early this morning, the current set strong against us this day; passed a number of Islands lying on the South side of the River, our Hunters did not come up to us this day. We encamp'd on an Island call'd Green Island, distance that we rowed this day being 12¼ Miles.-
July the 2nd 1804 Set out verry early this morning passd on the Left of the Isles des parques High butifull Situation- on the L S. the land indifferent lands a Creek coms in on the S. S. Called parques, all at once the river became Crowded with drift that it was dangerous to cross this I Suppose was from the caveing in of the banks at [t]he head of Some Island above, (3) passed a Creek on the L. S. called Turquie or Turkey Creek passed a verry bad Sand bar on the L. S. the 20 Oars & Poals could with much dificuelty Stem the Current, passed a large Island on the S. S. Called by the Inds. Wau-car-ba war-con-da or the Bear Medison Island, at 12 oClock came to on the Island and put in a mast, detained four hours, exceedingly hot, wind in forepart of the day from the S. E, George Drewyer informs that the Lands he pass through yesterday & to day on the S. S. was generally Verry fine he Saw two Springs of fresh water near the Island, Deer Sign has become So Common it is hardly necessary to mention them, we Camped after dark on the S. S. opposit the 1st old Village of the Kanzas which was Situated in a Valley between two points of high land, on the river back of their village commenced an extensive Prarie a large Island in front which appears to have made on that Side and thrown the Current of the river against the place the Village formerly Stood, and washes away the bank in that part. The french formerly had a Fort at this place, to protect the trade of this nation, the Situation appears to be a verry elligable one for a Town, the valley rich & extensive, with a Small Brook Meanding [meandering] through it and one part of the bank affording yet a good Landing for Boats The High Lands above the Fere [Fire] river on each Side of the Missouries appear to approach each other much nearer than below that plaice, being from 3 to 6 miles between them, to the Kansas, above that place from 3 to 5 Ms. apart and higher Some places being 160 or 180 feet the river not So wide We made a Mast of Cotton wood, [yesterday] to day in the Course of the evening & night it turned of a butifull red Colour
July 2nd, 1804 Set out early and proceed on the left of the Islands, two of which are large a high bottom Situated on the L. S. passed the mouth of a Creek on the S. S. Called [NB: Parques] Creike, at this place I observed that the river was Crouded with Drift wood, and dangerous to pass as this dead timber Continued only about half an our, I concluded that Some Island of Drift had given way (3) passed a Creek on the L. S. called Turky Creek, a bad Sand bar on the L. S. we could with dificuelty Stem the Current with our 20 oars & and all the poles we had, passed a large Island on the S. S. Called by the Indians Wau-car-ba war-cand-da or the Bear Medesin Island, at 12 oClock landed on the Island & put up a mast which detained us four hours- a verry hot day winds from the S. E.- George Drewyer inform's that the Lands he passed through yesterday and to day on the S. S. was verry fine, few Springs, we Camped after dark on the S. S. above the Island & opposit the 1st old village of the Kanzes which was Situated in a valley, between two points of high Land, and imediatly on the river bank, back of the village and on a riseing ground at about one mile The French had a garrison for Some time and made use of water out of a Spring running into Turkey Creek. an extensive Prarie, as the Current of the river Sets against the banke and washes it away the landing place for Boats is indifferent- The high lands above the Fire river, approaches nearer each than below, being from 3 to 6 miles distant and above Kansas from 3 to 5 miles distant and the Hills at Some places are from 160 to 180 feet above the bottom
Monday July 2nd 1804. we Set out verry early this morning passed a High beautiful Situation on the South Side of the river, a Creek Comes in on the North Side called parques or fence Creek or River, we passed a Creek on the South Side called Turquie or Turkey Creek, we Delayed at 12 o.C. for to put up a Temperary mast as the wind was fair, we passed a prarie on the South Side of the River called the old Village of the Kansars &C. we passed Several Islands. Several Deer killed this day, we camped on the North Side of the River Our flanking party did not Join us at night
Monday July 2d Set out verry early this morning passed on the Left of the Isd. parque &c High butifule Situation on the South Side the Land indifferent Lands a Creek Comes in on the N Side called parkques Creek passed a creek on the N-Side called Turkey Creek High Landes came 10 miles campt on the N Side, [on the South Side was a old French fort in former times the old Kansas village on the Back of this village in High Hills of Prarae Land T] on the South Side was a old French fort who had Setled hear to protect the Trade of this nation in the valley the Kansas Had a village between tow pints of High Praria Land a Handsom Situation for a town
Monday 2nd. At sunrise we continued our voyage, and met a quantity of drift wood which was carried down the stream; this morning we passed a creek on the south side and encamped on the north opposite an old French village and fort, but all vacant.
Monday 2nd Got on Our way at Green Island at 4 Oclock P. M., the water was Strong passd a prarie on the west S. at Sd place Crossing the [river] at Sd. place the Boat Swong the [page torn] Exerted them selves mighty well [page torn] off halted and got a mast [page torn] the Barge Roed. 10½ Miles [page torn] the head of Ordaways [page torn]
Monday July 2nd This morning we left Green Island, at 4 oClock A. M. Found the water to run very strong against us we passed a Priari lying on the So West side of the River, we crossed the River at this Priari, and in so doing the boat swung and got aground, but by the exertion of the Men she got off. we halted and got a Mast for our boat & We encamped in the Evening at the head of Ordaways Island, having rowed this day 10½ Miles.
July 3rd 1804 Set out verry early this morning and proceeded on under a gentle Breeze from the South passed two Islands one a Small Willow Island on the L. S. (1) The other a large Island Called Cow I. (Isle Vache), this Island is large, opposit to the head on the S. S. is a (2) large pond, a Bad Sand bar on the S. S. we attempted without Success, & was oblige to Cross back, I Saw a White horse on the L. S. in view of the upper point of the Island, (3) passed a large Sand bar at the S. point, w[e] halted to day about a mile above the Island and found a horse, which had been lost by the Indians, verry fat and jentle, Sent him on to join the others which was ahead on the L S at this place, the french had a tradeing house, for to trade with the Kanzes on a high bottom on the L. S. near the hills which is Prarie proceeded on round a large Sand bar on the L. S. & Camped (opposit a large Sand bar in the middle of the river). on the L. S. a Butifull Small Stream passes back of the trading house, before mentioned
July 3td, Tusday 1804
Set out verry early this morning and proceeded on under a gentle Breeze from the S. passed two Islands (1) one a Small willow Island on the L. S. the other large Called by the french Isle de Vache or Cow Island, opposit the head on the S. S. is a large Pond Containg Beever, & fowl, a bad Sandbar on the S. S. above the Island, on the L. S. we halted at an old Tradeing house, [NB: deserted] here we found a verry fat horse, which appears to have been lost a long time a butifull Small run passes back of the Tradeing house near the high land, we came to at a round bend on the L. S. and Camped
Tuesday July 3rd 1804. we Set out eairly & proceeded on under a gentle Breese from the South. passed a long Island & Several Small ones we found a white horse on the bank of the river near whare their was an old Trading house built by a French merchant from St. Louis to Trade with the kansars Indians. The land is Good high bottom pine Timber & black wallnut honey locas oak &C. &C- I Saw waat they call bucks Eye with the nuts on them; we passed a high prarie oposite to the Trading house & Camped at a point on the South Side of the Missouris
Tuesday July 3dth Set out verry erley this morning under a Jentel Breas from the South found a Stray Horse on the South Side Havg Had Ben Lost for Som time water verry Strong So Hard that we Could Hardley Stem it Came 10 miles Campt on the South Side the Land is verry mirey
Tuesday 3rd. We proceeded again at five, and continued our voyage until 12, when we stopt at an old trading place on the south side of the river. There we found a grey horse; but saw no appearance of any persons having lately encamped at that place.
Tusday 3rd Got on our way [page torn] Island oposite the [page torn] Wind Rose Saild. [page torn] Lat 38° 31 13 N.
Tuesday July 3rd We started from Ordaways Island, opposite to a place called the French Garrison. The wind being in our favour, and blowing a good Breeze, The hunters this day killed 3 deer. We encamp'd in the Evening, having Sailed 14 Miles this day.- Latitude of Ordaways Island being 38° 31' 13 North
July 4th Wednesday 1804, Set out early passed the mouth of a Beyeue [bayou] leading from a Lake on the S. S. this Lake is large and was once the bend of the River, it reaches Parrelel for Several miles, Came to on the L. S. to Dine & rest a Short time, a Snake bit Jo: Fields on the Side of his foot which Swelled much, apply Barks to the wound, pass a Creek on the L. S. about 15 yards wide cuming out of an extensive Prarie as this Creek has no name, and this day is the 4th of July, we name this Independence us. [U.S.] Creek above this Creek the wood land is about 200 yards, back of those wood is an extensive Prarie open and high, which may be Seen six or seven [miles?] below- Saw great Nos. of Goslins to day nearly Grown, the last mentioned prarie I call Jo Fields Snake Prarie, Capt. Lewis walked on Shore & Saw a large moun[d] & 3 roads leading We Camped in the plain one of the most butifull Plains, I ever Saw, open & butifully diversified with hills & vallies all presenting themselves to the river covered with grass and a few scattering trees a handsom Creek meandering thro at this place the Kansaw Inds. formerly lived and had a verry large Town passed a Creek I observed Spring braking out of the bank, a good Situation for a fort on a hill at the upper part
The Plains of this countrey are covered with a Leek Green Grass, well calculated for the sweetest and most norushing hay -interspersed with Cops [copses] of trees, Spreding their lofty branchs over Pools Springs or Brooks of fine water. Groops of Shrubs covered with the most delicious froot is to be seen in every direction, and nature appears to have exerted herself to butify the Senery by the variety of flours Delicately and highly flavered raised above the Grass, which Strikes & profumes the Sensation, and amuses the mind throws it into Conjecterng the cause of So magnificent a Senerey [several words illegible, crossed out] in a Country thus Situated far removed from the Sivilised world to be enjoyed by nothing but the Buffalo Elk Deer & Bear in which it abounds & [page torn] Savage Indians
The names of the french Ingishees [engagés], or Hirelens [hirelings]-
1 Battist de Shone [Baptist Deschamps] Patrn [Perogue]
*2 Joseph Le bartee [Liberte?] in Perogue
3 Lasoness [Baptist La Jeunesse] in Perogue
4 Paul Preemau [Paul Primeau] in Perogue
5 Chalo in Perogue
6 E. Cann in Perogue
7 Roie in Perogue
8 Charlo Cougee in Perogue
*J: Le bartee [Liberte?] in the large Boat
Rivee [Rivet] in the large Boat
Pieter Crousatt half Indian bow men
William La Beice [Labiche] Mallat bow men
3 Sergts. & 23 men for the Boat [Good]
George Drewyer. Hunter & 4 Horses [Bowmen]
1 Corpl & 4 Privates in a Perogue to be Sent back from Plate river
Mr. Dueron [Dorion] inteptr for the Sues
Capt. Lewis my Self & York
in all 46 men July 4th 4 horses & a Dog
July 4th Wednesday ussered in the day by a discharge of one shot from our Bow piece, proceeded on, passed the mouth of a (1) Bayeau lading from a large Lake on the S. S. which has the apperance of being once the bed of the river & reaches parrelel for Several Miles Came to on the L. S. to refresh ourselves &. Jos: Fields got bit by a Snake, which was quickly doctered with Bark by Cap Lewis. (2) Passed a Creek 12 yds. wide on L. S. comeing out of an extensive Prarie reching within 200 yards of the river, as this Creek has no name, and this being the we Din[e] (on corn) the 4th of July the day of the independance of the U. S. call it 4th of July 1804 Creek, Capt. Lewis walked on Shore above this Creek and discovered a high moun from the top of which he had an extensive view, 3 paths Concentering at the moun Saw great numbers of Goslings to day which Were nearly grown, the before mentioned Lake is clear and Contain great quantities of fish an Gees & Goslings, The great quantity of those fowl in this Lake induce me to Call it the Gosling Lake, a Small Creek & Several Springs run in to the Lake on the East Side from the hills the land on that Side verry good- (3) We came to and camped in the lower edge of a Plain where 2d old Kanzas village formerly Stood, above the mouth of a Creek 20 yds wide this Creek we call Creek Independence as we approached this place the Praree had a most butifull appearance Hills & Valies interspsd with Coops [copses] of Timber gave a pleasing deversity to the Senery. the right fork of Creek Independence Meandering thro: the middle of the Plain a point of high Land near the river givs an allivated Situation. at this place the Kanzas Indians formerley lived. this Town appears to have covd. a large Space, the nation must have been noumerous at the time they lived here, the Cause of their moveing to the Kanzas River, I have never heard, nor Can I learn; war with their neghbors must have reduced this nation and Compelled them to retire to a Situation in the plains better Calculated for their defence and one where they may make use of their horses with good effect, in persueing their enemey, we Closed the [day] by a Discharge from our bow piece, an extra Gill of whiskey.
(Point Obstn. No. 17.)
Wednesday July 4th
On the Larboard Shore three miles below a high Prarie hill on same shore, near the 2nd old vilage of the Kancez.
Wednesday July 4th 1804, we Set out Eairly & passed the mouth of the outlet of a large lake which comes in on the north Side. this pond or lake is large & their has been a Great many bever found in it, high land on the South Side & praries, we Delayed a Short time at noon to dine. a Snake bit Jo. Fields on the out Side of his foot, this was under the hills near the praries on the South Side, we passed a Creek on the South Side about 15 yards wide. comes out of the large prarie, and as it has no name & as it is the 4 of July, Capts. name it Independence Creek we fired our Bow piece this morning & one in the evening for Independance of the U. S. we saw a nomber of Goslins half grown to day. we camped in the plans one of the most beautiful places I ever Saw in my life, open and beautifully Diversified with hills & vallies all presenting themselves to the River,
Wensday July 4th 1804 Set out verry erley this morning passed the mouth of a Beyeu leading from a Lake on the N. Side this Lake is Large and was once the Bead of the River it reaches Parrelel for Several miles Came to on the South Side to Dine rest a Short time a Snake Bit Jo. Fieldes on the Side of the foot which Sweled much apply Barks to [Cooverod?] passed a Creek on the South Side a bout 15 yards wide Coming out of an extensive Prarie as the Creek has no name and this Day is the 4th of July we name this Independance a Creek above this Creek the wood Land is about 200 yards Back of these wood is an extensive Praria open and High whigh may be Seen Six or Seven below saw Grat nomber of Goslins to day nearley Grown the Last mentioned prarie I call Jo. Fieldes Snake prarie Capt Lewis walked on Shore we camped at one of the Butifules Praries I ever Saw open and butifulley Divided with Hills and vallies all presenting themselves
Wednesday 4th. We fired a swivel at sunrise in honour of the day, and continued our voyage; passed a creek on the north side, called Pond creek, and at one o'clock stopt to dine. One of our people got snake bitten but not dangerously. After dinner we renewed our voyage, and passed a creek on the north side, which we called Independence, encamped on the north side at an old Indian village situated in a handsome prairie, and saluted the departing day with another gun.
Wendy 4 Got on our way at Green point at the Usal hour the wind being favourable and the water being Good Roed on Successfully the day mighty hot when we went to toe the Sand [s]Calded Our [feet] Some fled from the Rope had to put on Our Mockisons. within the River Calld Independance found a Gray horse on the W. Side Roed 16 Miles Incampd on a Perarie namd Old town deCaugh-;
Wednesday July 4th This morning we started Early from green point or Ordways Island having a fair wind, and the water being good, we rowed on successfully. this day proved very warm. we left off rowing and went to Towing the boat, but the sand was so hot, that it scalded our feet, some of the Men left the tow rope, and had to put on their Mockasins to keep their feet from being burnt, we passed a River which we called Independance, where we found a Gray horse on the So. West side of said River. we came as far as a Priari, call'd Old town de Caugh, where we encamped, the distance being 16 Miles-
July the 5th 1804 Set out verry early this morning, Swam the horse across the river, proceeded on for two miles under the bank where the old Kansas town formerly stood (Say in 1724) The Cause of those people moveing from this place I cannot learn, but naterally conclude that War has reduced their nation & compelled them to retire further into the Plains with a view of defending themselves & opposeing their enemey (more effectually[)] on hors back (I neglected to mention yesterday that the Lake on the S. S. was large Say ¾ me. wide & 7 or 8 long one creek & Several brooks running into it from the hills, it contains Great quantities of Sun fish & Gosling's from which we gave it the name,) passed Some verry bad Sand bars Situated parrelel to each other, (1) the Boat turned three times once on the [Plat?] of a Drift wood. She recved no proceiviable damage, we came to for Dinner at a Beever house, Cap Lewis's Dog Seamon [Scannon] went in & drove them out. the high Lands on the L. S. is open, a few trees Scattering (2) passed a Small Creek on the L. S. in the ls[1st] bend to the left I call yellow oaker [ochre] creek from a bank of that Mineral just above. we camped on the L. S. under a high bank Latd. 39° 25' 41" North
on the banks of this river I observe great quants of Grapes, berries & roses Deer is not So plenty in this three days past as they were below that. Elks are plenty about those Praries. Some Buffalow Sign.
July 5th Thursday 1804
Set out verry early, proceeded on near the bank where the old village Stood for two miles, (Swam the hors found a few day ago) passed Some bad Sand bars, The Origan of this old village is uncertain M. de Bourgmont a French officer who Comdd. a fort near the Town of the Missouris in about the year 1724 and in July of the Same year he visited this Village at that time the nation was noumerous & well desposed towards the french Mr. Du Pratz must have been badly informed as to the Cane opposd this place we have not Seen one Stalk of reed or cane on the Missouries, he States that the "Indians that accompanied M De Bourgmont Crossed to the Canzes Village on [rafts] floats of Cane"
Those people must have been verry noumerous at that time as Mr. De B: was accompanied by 300 Warriers, 500 young people & 300 Dogs of burthen out of this Village
The Cause of Those Indians moveing over to the Kanzis river I have never lernt- we passed Some bad Sand bars, Situated parrelel to each other (1) The Boat turned twice on the quick Sand & once on [the] a raft of Drift, no procievable damage Prarie Contine on the high land on the L. S. passsd a Small Creek (2) on L. S. in the first bend to the L S. I call Yellow-Oaker Creek from a quantity of that Mineral in a bank a little above
The river Continue to fall a litte- I observe great quantities of Summer & fall Grapes, Berries & Wild roases on the banks- Deer is not so plenty as usual, great Deel of Elk Sign. (Wind from S E)
Thursday July 5th 1804 we Set out verry eairly. we Swam the white horse a cross this River, proceeded on for two miles under the bank where the old Kansas Town formerly Stood (Say in 1724) the cause of those people moveing from this place we cannot learn, but naturly conclude that war has reduced their nation and compelled them to retire further into the plains with a view of Defending themselves. I did not mention on yesterday that the Lake on the north side was large say ¾ of a Mile wide & 7 or 8 miles long one Creek & several Creeks running in to it from the hills it contains a great quantity of fish and Goslings from which it takes its name, we passed Some verry bad Sand bars the Boat turned three times once on a Drift wood, but recived no procevable Damage, we came too at a beaver house for Dinner. the high land on the South Side is open a fiew trees Scattering, we passed a Small creek on the left named yallow Oakey Creek, we Camped on the South Side under a high bank. the land on the opposite Side is well timbered Good bottom, fine place for a Range verry thick high Rushes for common,
Thursday July 5th 1804 Set out errley this morning Swam ouer Stray Horse a Cross the River to Join our other Horses prossed on for two miles under the Bank of the old Kansas village formaley Stood in 1724 the couse of the Indians moving from this place I cant Larn but natreley Concluded that war has reduced thair nation and Compelled them to Retir further in to the Plaines with a view of Defending themselves and to operserve their enemey and to Defende them Selves on Horse Back encampt on the South Side
Thur. 5th. We proceeded on our voyage at five in the morning; and found the land high on the south side. We went through a large bend full of sand-bars where we had some difficulty in passing; and encamped on the south side at high prairie land.
Thursdy 5 Got on our way Roed. a mile Up the prarie Crossd the River with the white horse and left him with the others that the hunters had on the E. Shore Roed. 10 Miles Incampd at the Rock Prarie-
Thursday July 5th We started early this morning, and rowed one Mile on our way; and took in the white horse and crossed the River with him, and landed him with the other horses on the No. East shore where the hunters had left them, and Encamp'd in the evening at the Rock Priari, distance come this day being 10 Miles
6th July Friday. We Set out early this morning & Proceeded on (the river falls Slowly) wind S. W) passed a Sand bar in 1st bend to the right (1) passed a Small Island at the S. pt. a verry warm day (worthy of remark that the water of this river or Some other Cause, I think that the most Probable throws out a greater preposn. of Swet than I could Suppose Could pass thro: the humane body Those men that do not work at all will wet a Shirt in a Few minits & those who work, the Swet will run off in Streams) opposit the 3rd point passed a Prarie on the S. S. Called Reeveys Prarie (fro a man of that name being Killed in it[)] opposit this Prarie the river is Confined in a verry narrow Space Crowded on S. S. by [emence?] Sands which were moveing and difficuelt to pass. the Hunts. Sent in 3 Deer Jurked on the 4th point of to day is a Small Island & a Sand bar 2 miles out in the river, this is Called the Grand Bend, or Grande de Tour, I walked on this Sand bar found it a light Sand intersperced with Small Pebbles of various Kinds, also pit Coal of an excellent quallity was lodged on the Sand, We camped on the L. S. at a small creek a whiper will perched on the boat for a Short time, I gave his name to the Creek
July 6th, Friday We Set out early this morning, wind from the S. W. passed a large Sand bar in the 1st. bend to the right. (1) passed a Small Island at the S. point opposit the 3rd point we passed a Prarie on the S. S. Called Reeveys Prarie at this place the river is Confined in a verry narrow Channel Crouded by a Sand bar from the L. Point This Sand bar from the L. Point, this Sand bar is verry bad, at the 4th Point from the S. S. is a verry extensive bar, at the Point of which is a Small willow Island this is Called the Grand Detour or Great bend [NB: great band is higher up]
I walked on this Sand bar and found the Sand was light, with Collection of Small pebble, & some Pit Coal I observe that the men Swet more than is Common from Some Cause, I think the Missouries water is the principal Cause our hunters Sent in 3 Bucks today The river Still fall a little
Friday July 6th 1804, we Set out eairly this morning proceeded on (the river falls Slowly) the weather is verry warm, Several day's, the Sweet pores off the men in Streams, opposite the 3d point we passed a handsome Prarie on the north side called Reeveys or St. Michele prarie, from a man of that name being killed in it we passed Round the Grand Bend which is 2 miles out in the River. we Camped on the South Side of the River a whiper will perched on the Boat for a short time,
Friday July 6th 1804 Set out prossed under a Jentell Brees from the South west the water wase So [s]trong that we Could Hardley Steem it, Came 12 miles encampt at the mouth of a Creek on the South Side of the River Called Whipperwill Creek it is 15 yards wide
Friday 6th. We set out early this morning; had a fine day, and made a good day's voyage: and encamped on the south side at Whipperwell creek.
Fridy 6 Got on Our way at the Usal hour at the Rock Prarie the water was tolarably Good. the land a little distance from the River Hilly prarie. had Good Sailing Roed 15 Miles Campd. at a prarie Calld. the bald hills-
Friday July 6th This morning we started at the usual hour, from the Rock priari, the water was tolerable good, The land a little distance from the River was hilly Priaries. We encamp'd at a Priari called the Bald hills. We had good sailing this day the distance being 15 Miles-
7th of July Satturday 1804 Set out early passed Some verry Swift water on the L. S. which Compelled us to Draw up by the Cord. a verry warm morning, passed a butifull Prarie on the right Side which extends back, those Praries has much the appearance from the river of farms, Divided by narrow Strips of woods those Strips of timber grows along the runs which rise on the hill & pass to the river a Cleft above, one man sick (Frasure) Struck with the Sun, Saw a large rat on the Side of the bank, Killed a wolf on the Bank passed (2) a verry narrow part of the river, all confined within 200 yards, a yellow bank above, passed a Small willow Island on the S. point, (in Low water those Small Willow Islands are joined to the Sand bars makeing out from the Points) a pond on the S. S near the prarie we passed yesterday in which G D. Saw Several young Swans we Came to and Camped on the L. S. and two men Sent out last evening with the horses did not Join us this evening agreeable to orders- a hard wind with Some rain from the N, E at 7 oClock which lasted half an hour, with thunder & lightning. river fall a little
July the 7th Satturday 1804
Set out early passed Some Swift water, which obliged us to draw up by roapes, a Sand bare at the point opposit a butifull Prarie on the S. Side Calld. (1) St. Michul, those Praries on the river has verry much the appearence of farms from the river Divided by narrow Strips of wood land, which wood land is Situatd. on the runs leading to the river. passed a Bluff of yellow Clay above the Prarie. Saw a large rat on the bank. Killed a Wolf. at 4 oClock pass a Verry narrow part of the river water Confd. in a bead not more than 200 yards wide at this place the Current runs against the L. Side. no Sand to Confine the Current on the S. S. passed a Small sand Island above the Small Islds. Situated at the points, in low water form a part of the Sand bars makeing out from those points
Incamped on the S. S. at 7 oClock a Violent Ghust of wind from the N. E. with Some rain, which lasted half an hour (G D. informs me that he Saw in a Pond on the S. S. which we passed yesterday; a number of young Swans-,[)] one man verry Sick, Struck with the Sun, Capt. Lewis bled him & gave Niter which has revived him much
Saturday July 7th 1804. we Set our eairly passed Swirt waters on the South Side, verry warm morning, passed a beautiful prarie on the North Side which extends back, those praries called St. Michel has much the appearance from the river of farms Divided by narrow Strips of woods those Strips of timber grows along the runs which rise on the hills, & pass to the River, I went on Shore with the Horses in the afternoon In the North Side crossed a Creek 2 miles up in the evening followed down to the mouth, and Camped it being too late to find the boat, the Musquitoes troubled me So that I Could not Sleep, as this Creek is without name & my Describeing it to my Capt. he named it Ordway Creek. Some of the men in the Boat killed a wolf to day they Camped on the South Side of the Missouris. one man taken Sick (Frasier).
Saturday July 7th Set out errley prosed along, passed Some Strong water on the South Side, which Compelled us to Draw up by the Cord Clear morning verry warm Strong water Came 10 miles Camt on the N. Side
Saturday 7th. At an early hour we proceeded on our voyage; passed a high handsome prairie on the north side, and killed a wolf and a large woodrat on the bank. The principal difference between it and the common rat is, its having hair on its tail.
Saterdy 7 Got under way about Sun Rise Six Miles from whare we Started Came to the most beautifull prarie On the E. S. Whare Nature formd Some battryes And Read Outs the hills putts in Neer the River A Quarter of mile to the N. E of Sd. prarie a rock on the Bank of the River about 320 feet from the Surface of the watter high to the top thereoff. after passing Sd. place towards the Evening a man Espyd. a wolf lying a Sleep with the Noise of the Oars Roeing he awoke Stood to know what was a comeing Captn. Lewis shot at him Wounded the Animal, Colter likeways, Killd him it was thought he was mad when the first Bawl Struck him he Snapd. at his hind part Roed. 15 Miles. Incampd.-
Saturday July 7th We left the Priari at sun rise, and proceeded on Six Miles, when we passed a most beautiful Priari, lying on the No. East side of the River, where Nature had formed some batterys and Redoubts, by Hills, which put in near to the River.-
On the bank of the River, about one quarter of a Mile North east of the Priari is a rock and is 320 feet high from the surface of the Water to the top of it, we left this rock and towards evening, one of our men espied a Wolf laying a sleep on the shore, as we approached towards him, the noise of our Oars awoke him, he stood there to see what was coming, when Captain Lewis shot at him, and struck him with a Ball, the Wolf then acted as if mad snapping continually at his hind parts. The Captain order'd one Colter to fire at him, which he did, and killed him.- In the Evening we encamped on the bank of the River, having rowed 15 Miles this day.-
8th of July Sunday Set out early this morning, the Sick man [Frazer] much better, Serjt. Oddeway was waiting at a Creek on the S. S. below an Island, passed (1) two Island on the S. S. and came to at the upper point, G Drewyer went out R. Fields & Guterich [Goodrich], five men Sick to day with a violent Head ake &c. and Several with Boils, we appoint a Cook to each mess to take Charge of the Provisions. in Serjt. Pryor's = Collens in Sjt. Ordway's Werner in Sergt. Floyd's Thompson, The french men Killed a young Deer on the Bank, (2) passed up a narrow Channel of about 80 to 100 yds wide about 5 miles to the mouth of Nadawa River which coms in to this channel from the N W. and is abt. 70 yards wide at its mouth [blank] feet Deep and has a jentle Current, Perogues can navagate this river near its head, which is between the Missourie & the Grand River, passed up the gut ¾ of a mile to the river at the head of the Island & camped opposit the head of this Island is another nearest the [Larboard Shore,] Middle R this Island Nadawa is the largest I have Seen, formed by a Channel washing into the Nadawa river.- "8 or 10000 acrs"
July the 8th Sunday 1804
Set out early passed a Small Creek on the S. S. and two (1) Small Islands on the S. S. five men Sick to day with a violent head ake &c. we made Some arrangements as to provisions & Messes, came to for Dinner at the lower point of a very large Island Situated near the S. S. after a delay of two hours we passed a narrow channel of 45 to 80 yds wide five miles to the mouth of (3) Nádawa River, This river Coms in from the North and is navagable for Perogues Some distance. it is about 70 yards wide a little above the mouth, at the mouth not So side, the mud of the Gut running out of the Missourie is thrown and Settles in the mouth half a mile higher up this Channel or gut is the upper point of the Said Island, This Island is Called Nadawa, & is the largest I have Seen in the river, containing 7 or 8000 acres of Land Seldom over flowed we Camped at the head of this Island on the S. S. opposit the head or our Camp is a Small Island near the middle of the river, river Still falling. our flank party did not join us this evening
Nadawa Island July 8th 1804.-
In order to insure a prudent and regular use of all provisions issued to the crew of the Batteaux in future, as also to provide for the equal distribution of the same among the individuals of the several messes, The Commanding Officers Do appoint the following persons to recieve, cook, and take charges of the provisions which may from time to time be issued to their respective messes, (viz) John B. Thompson to Sergt. Floyd's mess, William Warner to Sergt. Ordway's mess, and John Collins to Sergt. Pryor's Mess.- These Superintendants of Provision, are held immediately responsible to the commanding Officers for a judicious consumption of the provision which they recieve; they are to cook the same for their several messes in due time, and in such manner as is most wholesome and best calculated to afford the greatest proportion of nutriment; in their mode of cooking they are to exercise their own judgment; they shall allso point out what part, and what proportion of the mess provisions are to be consumed at each stated meal (i. e.) morning, noon and night; nor is any man at any time to take or consume any part of the mess provisions without the privity, knowledge and consent of the Superintendant. The superintendant is also held responsible for all the cooking eutensels of his mess. in consideration of the duties imposed by this order on Thompson, Warner, and Collins, they will in future be exempt from guard duty, tho' they will still be held on the royster for that duty, and their regular tour-shall be performed by some one of their rispective messes; they are exempted also from pitching the tents of the mess, collecting firewood, and forks poles &c. for cooking and drying such fresh meat as may be furnished them; those duties are to be also performed by the other members of the mess.-
(Point of observation No. 18.)
Sunday July the 8th 1804.
On the Starboard shore immediately below an high bluff situated ¼ of a mile below the lower point of Nadawa Island.
Sunday July 8th 1804. we Set out eairly this morning I came on board about 8 oClock proceeded on along the North Side of an Island called Nodaway Island. high well timbered land on the North Side, passed a Creek near the upper end of this long Island called Nodaway Creek or River we Camped on the North Side of the Missouris, the Hunters killed one Deer to day but did not Join us at night,
Sunday July 8th Set out at Sun Rise Rain Last night with wind from the E. passed some Good Land to day and High passed a Creek on the N. Side it Cam in Back of Islad it is a Bout 70 Yards wide Called Nadawa Creek the Land is Good and well timbrerd Camt on the N. Side
Sunday 8th. We were under way this morning before day light. The river here is crooked and narrow. At one we came to a large island, with only a small stream on the north side which we went up. A large creek called Nadowa flows in from the north; and on this side we encamped.
Sunday 8th the wind rose before we started and blew fair with us Saild. Chiefly for the space of Eight hours we Came to Small River Calld little Nan doughe,- In Indian tounge, Inglish little woody River, it lieing in latude 39D 39M 22S 7/100 an lsland to the S.S On Our W.S. a bear apeared but Could not be Shot Made his alopement we Got to the River Nandouie Roed. 15 Miles Incamd. at the head of a large Island-
Sunday July 8th This morning we embark'd early with a fair wind, and sail'd for 8 hours, when we came to a small River called Little Nan doughe, in the Indian language, which is in english little wood River, it lying by observation taken by Captains Lewis & Clark in Latitude 39° 39' 22 7/100 North. there is an Island lying on the South side of the River, & on the So. West side, a bear was seen & being pursued by one of our hands, it made its escape, we proceeded on, and arrived at the River Nandoucee, and encamped at the head of a large Island, the distance we came this day being 15 Miles.-
July the 9th Monday 1804 Sent one man back to the mouth of the River to mark a tree, to let the party on Shore See that the Boat had passed the river, Set out early passed (1) the head of the Island Situated in the middle of the river a Sand bar at the head, (2) passed the mouth of a Creek or Bayou on the S. S. leading from a large Pond of about three miles in length, at 8 oClock it commenced raining, the wind changed from N E. to S. W. (3) at 6 miles passed the mouth of a Small Creek on the L. S. called Monters Creek, the river at this place is wide with a Sand bar in the Middle, passed a place on the L. S. about 2 miles above the Creek, where Several french men camped two years to hunt- (4) passed a Island on the S S. of the river in a bend, opsd. a high Land on the L. S. wind Shifted to the N. W. in the evining, opsd. this Island, and on the L. S. Loup or Wolf River Coms in, this river is about 60 yards Wide, but little water running at the mouth, this river heads with the waters of the Kanzas, and has a perogue navigation Some distance, it abounds with Beaver, Camped opposit the head of the Island on the L. S. Saw a fire on the S. S. Supposedly the four flankers, to be theire, Sent a perogue for them, the Patroon & Bowman of the Perogue French, they returned & informed, that when they approached the fire, it was put out, which caused them to return, this report causd. us to look out Supposeing a pty. of Soux going to war, firierd the bow piec to allarm & put on their guard the men on Shore everey thing in readiness for Defence.
July 9th Monday 1804
one man Sent back to the river we passed last night to Blase [NB: notch] a tree with a view to notify the party on Shore of our passing Set out and passed the head of the (1) Island which was Situated opposit to our Camp last night a Sand bar at the head (2) opsd. this Island a [Gut[ Creek or Bayaue Coms in from a large Pond on the Starboard Side, as our flanking party Saw great numbers of Pike in this Pond, I have laid it down with that name anex'd, at 8 oClock the wind Shifted from the N, E to S W and it commenced raining. (3) at Six miles passed the mouth of Creek on the L. S. Called [Monter's] [NB: Montain's] Creek, about two mile above is some Cabins where our Bowman & Several frenchmen Campd. two years [NB: ago] (4) passed an Island on the S. S. in a Bend of the river opposit Some Clifts on the L. S. the wind Shifted to the N W opposit this Island and on the L. Side (Loup) or Wolf River Coms in, this river is about 60 yards wide and heads with the waters of the Kansis, and is navagable for Perogues "Some destance up" Camped at a point on the L. S. opposit the head of the Island, our party was incamped on the Opposit Side, their not answering our Signals Caused us to Suspect the persons Camped opposit to us was a war party of Soux, we fired the Bow piece to alarm the party on Shore, alled prepared to oppose it attacted
Monday July the 9th 1804, we Set out eairly Sent Bratton Back to the Creek to blaze some trees, So the Hunters might See we had passed. proceeded on passed a Creek or leading from a big pond called the Creek of the big pond. this pond is near the River, and about 3 miles long & handsom a great many beaver, & fish, fine land and well timbered about this place, Rainy. the wind changed from the N. E. to the S. W. at 6 miles passed the mouth of a Small Creek on the South Side called Monters or wolf Creek, passed a place on the South Side about 2 miles above the Creek where Several Frenchman Camped 2 years for to hunt & raise corn &c- high land on the South Side we passed a Creek on the South Side called River DeLoup, the wind Shifted to the N. W. in the evening. Camped on the South Side of the Missouris, a Gun fired on the opposite Side Supposed to be our hunters the pearogue went over for them but did not find them nor any body else. we fired our bow peace.
Monday July 9th 1804 Set out erley this morning prosed on passed a Small Creek on the South Side Called monter Creek High Land Rain to day Sailed the Gratist part of the day passed a prarie on the South Side whare Seveal French famileys had Setled and made Corn Some Years ago Stayed two years the Indians came Freckentley to See them and was verry frendley passed a Creek on the South Side Called wolf Creek it is about 60 yards wide the Land is Good water Strong made 10 miles encamt on the South Side Saw a fire on the N. Side thougt it was ouer flanken partey Sent ouer perogue over for them and when they got over Saw no fire Seposed it to be Indians fired ouer Cannon for ouer men
Monday 9th. Early this morning we continued our voyage. It rained hard till 12 o'clock. We passed a creek on the south side, called Wolf creek. The man that was snake bitten is become well. We encamped on the south side.
Monday 9 Sat out the Usal hour of Day light Rain Came on Raind the Most part of the day the hunters did not Come in We Rod 12 Miles at piettet River de louce or woolf River- Incampd. it lies on the W. S. the Mouth is about 20 yds. B. the hunters Came [in] did not Come in
Monday July 9th We set off early this morning, shortly after we had started a Rain came on, which continued most part of the day.-
We proceed on our Voyage and arrived at a River called Petit River De louce, or Little Wolf River, the mouth of which is 20 Yards wide. This River lies on the So West side of the River Mesouri, our hunters that were out, did not come to us this day, The distance we rowed this day being 12 Miles.
July 10th Tuesday Set out this morning with a view to Land near the fire Seen last night, & recornetre, but Soon discovered that our men were at the fire, they were a Sleep early last evening, and from the Course of the Wind which blew hard, their yells were not hea[r]d by party in the perogue, a mistake altogether-. proceeded on, passed [hole] Prarie on the upper Side of Woolf River, at 4 miles passed (1) a Small Creek L. S. Called [hole] R. Pape this Creek is about 15 yds. Wide-and called after a Spanierd who killed himself at th[e] mouth. (2) Dined on an Island Called de Selamen and delayed 3 hours, and proceeded on, opposit this Isld. on the L. S. is a (3) butifull Bottom Prarie whuch will Contain about 2000 acres of Land covered with wild rye & wild Potatoes, gread numbers of Goslings on the Banks & in the Ponds near the river, Capt Lewis Killed two this evening, we came to & Camped for the night, at a point on the S. S. opposit a yellow Clay Clift.- our men all getting well but much fatigued, the river is on a Stand nether rise nor fall, The bottom on the S. S. is verry extensive & thick. the Hills or high land is near the river on the L. S. and but thinly timbered, back of those hills is open plains.
July 10th Tuesday 1804
Set out early this morning and Crossd the river with a view to See who the party was that Camped on the other Side, we Soon discovered them to be our men,- proceeded on passed a Prarie on the L. S. at 4 miles passed a Creek L. S Called (1) [NB: Pape's Creek] after a man who Killed himself at its mouth, this Creek is 15 yds wide- (2) Dined on an Isld. Called [NB: Solomon's Island] Delayed 3 hours on this Island to recruit the men opposit on the L. S. is a butifull bottom Plain of about 2000 acres (3) Covered with wild rye & Potatoes, [NB: ground apple; pomme de terre] intermix't with the grass, we camped on the S. S. opposit a yellow Clay Clift, Capt. Lewis Killed t[w]o young Gees or Goslings this evening- The men of the party getting better, but much fatigued- The river on a Stand- The bottom is verry extensive on the S. S. and thickly intersperced with Vines
The High Land approaches near the river on the L. S. and well timbered next to the river, back of those hills the Plains Commence.
Tuesday July 10th 1804. we Set out this morning with a view to land near where we Saw the Seen last night & to reconortre but Soon Discovered that our men were at the fire, they were a Sleep eairly last night and did not know that we Sent for them by the pearogue, proceeded on passed a prarie on the upper side of woolf Creek or River at 4 miles passed a Small called River pake this Creek is about 15 yd. wide, and called after a Spaniard who killed himself at the mouth, at noon we dined on an Island called De Selamen and Delayed 3 hours. proceeded on opposite this Island on the South Side is a beuautiful Bottom prarie which will contain about 2000 acres of Land covered with wild rye and wild potatoes. Great numbers of Goslins on the Banks and on the Ponds near the River. Capt M. Lewis killed 2 this evening we came too & Camped for the night on the north Side opposite a Yellow Clay Clifts.- the Bottoms on the north Side is verry extensive & thick the hills or high Land is near the River on South Side & are but thinly timbered back of those hills is open prarie.
Tuesday July 10th Set out when we Could See, about us, when we Came to the place it was ouer men which had Left us two days ago, much feteged had Lay down and fell asleap passed a Small Creek on the South Side Called pape Creek it Comes through Bottom Land it is Called after a man who by drawning his Gun out of the Boat Shot him Self passed Som Strong water Campt on the north Side the Land is good
Tuesday 10th. We set out early this morning and had a fair day and fair wind. There is a handsome prairie on the south side opposite an island. We encamped on the north side.
Tusday 10 Got On Our way at woolf River at Sun Rise the water was Strong the Morning was Clear. On the E. S. of the River whare Stopd to take breakfast the willd. Rice was pleanty Groeing on the bank of the River, Straberyes, Rosies, Red And white Roed 11 Miles Campd. at [blank] the hunters Came in brought 2 deer with them-
Tuesday July 10th This morning at Sunrise we got under way from Little Wolf River, we found the current still setting strong against us, & very hard rowing to stem it, we encamped for a while to refresh ourselves at 8 oClock A. M.; we found here wild Rice, strawberry's and Red & white Roses [and Strawberry's] growing along the bank of the River, at 10 oClock A. M. we proceeded on, and in the evening encamped on the bank of the River where our hunters came in to us, having 2 Deer with them which they had killed. We rowed this day 11 Miles.-
Wednesday 10th of September 1806
we Set out very early this morning and proceeded on very well with wind moderately a head at [blank] P M we met a Mr. Alexander La fass and three french men from St. Louis in a Small perogue on his way to the River Platt to trade with the Pania Luup or Wolf Indians. this man was extreemly friendly to us he offered us any thing he had, we axcepted of a bottle of whisky only which we gave to our party, Mr. la frost informed us that Genl. Wilkinson and all the troops had decended the Mississippi and Mr. Pike and young Mr. Wilkinson had Set out on an expedition up the Arkansaw river or in that direction after a delay of half an hour we proceedd on about 3 miles and met a large perogue and 7 Men from St. Louis bound to the Mahars for the purpose of trade, this perogue was in Charge of a Mt. La Craw, we made Some fiew enquiries of this man and again proceeded on through a very bad part of the river Crouded with Snags & Sawyers and incamped on a Sand bar abou 4 miles above the Grand Nemahar. we find the river in this timbered Country narrow and more moveing Sands and a much greater quantity of Sawyers or Snags than above. Great caution and much attention is reguired to Stear Clear of all those dificuelties in this low State of the water. we made 65 Miles to day. we Saw Deer rackoons and turkies on the Shores to day one of the men killed a racoon which the indians very much admired.
Thursday 11th Septr. 1806
a heavy Cloud and wind from the N W. detained us untill after Sunrise at which time we Set out and proceeded on very well, passed the nemahar which was low and did not appear as wide as when we passed up. Wolf river Scercely runs at all, at 3 P. M we halted a little above the Nadawa river on the S. Side of the Missouri to kill Some meat that which we killed a fiew days past being all Spoiled. Sent out 6 hunters they killed and brought in two Deer only, we proceeded on a fiew miles below the nadawa island and encamped on a Small Isld. near the N. E. Side, haveing Came 40 Miles only to day, river rapid and in maney places Crouded with Snag's. I observe on the Shores much deer Sign-- the [mosquitoes?] are no longer troublesome on the river, from what cause they are noumerous above and not So on this part of the river I cannot account. Wolves were howling in different directions this evening after we had encamped, and the barking of the little prarie wolves resembled those of our common Small Dogs that 3/4 of the party believed them to be the dogs of Some boat assending which was yet below us. the barking of those little wolves I have frequently taken notice of on this as also the other Side of the Rocky mountains, and their Bark so much resembles or Sounds to me like our Common Small Cur dogs that I have frequently mistaken them for that Speces of dog-- The papaws nearly ripe--.
Friday 12th of September 1806
a thick fog a litile before day which blew of[f] at day light. a heavy Dew this morning. we Set out at unrise the usuial hour and proceeded on very well about 7 miles met 2 perogues from St. Louise one contained the proerty of Mr. Choteau bound to the panias on River Platt, the other going up trapping as high as the Mahares. here we met one of the french men who had accompanied us as high as the Mandans he informed us that Mr. McClellen was a fiew miles below the wind blew a head Soon after we pased those perogues, we Saw a man on Shore who informed us that he was one of Mr. McClellens party and that he was a Short distance below, we took this man on board and proceeded on and Met Mr. McClellin at the St. Michl. Prarie we came too here we found Mr. Jo. Gravelin the Ricaras enterpreter whome we had Sent down with a Ricaras Chief in the Spring of 1805 and old Mr. Durion the Sieux enterpreter, we examined the instructions of those interpreters and found that Gravelin was ordered to the Ricaras with a Speach from the president of the U. States to that nation and some presents which had been given the Ricara Cheif who had visited the U. States and unfortunately died at the City of Washington, he was instructed to teach the Ricaras agriculture & make every enquirey after Cap Lewis my self and the party-- Mr. Durion was enstructed to accompany Gravelin and through his influence pass him with his presents & by the tetons bands of Sieux, and to provale on Some of the Principal chiefs of those bands not exceeding six to Visit the Seat of the Government next Spring he was also enstructed to make every enquirey after us. we made Some Small addition to his instructions by extending the number of Chiefs to 10 or 12 or 3 from each band including the Yanktons &c. Mr. McClellin receved us very politely, and gave us all the news and occurrences which had taken place in the Illinois within his knowledge the evening proveing to be wet and Cloudy we Concluded to continue all night, we despatched the two Canoes a head to hunt with 5 hunters in them
rose early Mr. McClellen gave each man a Dram and a little after Sunrise we Set out the wind hard a head from the S E at 8 A M we landed at the Camp of the 5 hunters (which) whome we had Sent a head, they had killed nothing, the wind being too high for us to proceed in Safty through the emecity of Snags which was imediately below we concluded to lye by and Sent on the Small Canoes a Short distance to hunt and kill Some meat, we Sent out 2 men in the bottom they Soon returned with one turky and informed that the rushes was so high and thick that it was impossible to kill any deer. I felt my Self very unwell and derected a little Chocolate which Mr. McClellen gave us, prepared of which I drank about a pint and found great relief at 11 A. M. we proceeded on about 1 mile and come up with the hunters who had killed 4 deer, here we delayed untill 5 P. M. when the hunters all joined us and we again proceded on down a fiew miles and encamped on the N E Side of the Missouri haveing decended 18 Miles only to day. the day disagreeably worm. one man George Shannon left his horn and pouch with his powder ball and knife and did not think of it untill night. I walked in the bottom in the thick rushes and the Growth of timber Common to the Illinois Such as cotton wood, Sycamore, ash mulberry, Elm of different Species, walnut, hickory, horn beem, pappaw arrow wood willow, prickly ash, &c and Grape vines, pees of 3 species &c &c. Birds most Common the buzzard Crow the hooting owl and hawks,
Sunday 14th Sept. 1806
Set out early and proceeded on very well. this being the part of the Missouri the Kanzas nation resort to at this Season of the year for the purpose of robbing the perogues passing up to other nations above, we have every reason to expect to meet with them, and agreeably to their Common Custom of examining every thing in the perogues and takeing what they want out of them, it is probable they may wish to take those liberties with us, which we are deturmined not to allow of and for the Smallest insult we Shall fire on them. at 2 P. M. a little below the lower of the old Kanzas Village we met three large boats bound to the Yanktons and Mahars the property of Mr. Lacroy, Mr. Aiten & Mr. Coutau all from St. Louis, those young men received us with great friendship and pressed on us Some whisky for our men, Bisquet, Pork and Onions, & part of their Stores, we continued near 2 hours with those boats, makeing every eequirey into the state of our friends and Country &c. those men were much affraid of meeting with the Kanzas. we Saw 37 Deer on the banks and in the river to Day 5 of which we killed those deer were Meager. we proceeded on to an Island near the middle of the river below our encampment of the 1st of July 1804 and encamped haveing decended only 53 miles to day. our party received a dram and Sung Songs until 11 oClock at night in the greatest harmoney.
Monday 15th of September 1806
we set out early with a Stiff Breeze a head saw Several deer Swiming the river soon after we Set out. at 11 A. M. passed the enterance of the Kanzas river which was very low, about a mile below we landed and Capt Lewis and my Self assended a hill which appeared to have a Commanding Situation for a fort, the Shore is bold and rocky imediately at the foot of the hill, from the top of the hill you have a perfect Command of the river, this hill fronts the Kanzas and has a view of the Missouri a Short distance above that river. we landed one time only to let the men geather Pappaws or the Custard apple of which this Country abounds and the men are very fond of. we discovered a Buck Elk on a Small Island, and sent the 2 fields and Shannon in pursute of it they Soon Came up with and killed the Elk, he was large and in fine order we had his flesh Secured and divided. as the winds were unfabourable the greater part of the day we only decended 49 Miles and encamped a Short distance Above Hay Cabin Creek. we are not tormented by the Musquetors in this lower portion of the river, as we were above the river plat and as high up as the Rochejhone and for a fiew miles up that river, and above its enterance into the Missouri. we passd Some of the most Charming bottom lands to day and the uplands by no means bad, all well timberd. the weather disagreeable worm and if it was not for the constant winds which blow from the S. and S E. we Should be almost Suficated Comeing out of a northern Country open and Cool between the Latd. of 46 degrees and 39 degrees North in which we had been for nearly two years, rapidly decending into a woody Country in a wormer Climate between the Latds. 38 degrees & 39 degrees North is probably the Cause of our experiencing the heat much more Senceable than those who have Continued within the parralel of Latitude.
Entry: Lewis and Clark - Kansas Journal Entries
Author: Gary E. Moulton, ed.
Author information: Published by the University of Nebraska Press, the definitive edition of the Journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition.
Date Created: April 2010
Date Modified: July 2011
The author of this article is solely responsible for its content.