Kansas Historical Quarterly
Annals of Quindaro:
A Kansas Ghost Town
by Alan W. Farley
(copyright, 1956, by Alan W. Farley)
Winter, 1956 (Vol. 22, No. 4), pages 305 to 320;
Transcribed by Tristan Smith; composed in HTML by Tod Roberts;
digitized with permission of the Kansas Historical Society.
NOTE: The numbers in brackets refer to endnotes for this text.
I. INTRODUCTION
QUINDARO WAS CONCEIVED during the darkest hour of the
Free-State cause in Kansas territory, and like the
night-blooming cereus, the town flowered only in the
nocturnal gloom of antislavery hopes, for in the fall of
1856 the proslavery program of acquiring Kansas seemed
headed for success. The national administration of Franklin
Pierce had approved the election frauds in Kansas, denounced
all opposition as "revolutionary," and was completely
dominated by the Southern radicals of the Democratic party.
The people and officialdom of western Missouri had erected a
virtual embargo on Free-State emigration through that state;
as many travelers were turned back and subjected to
indignity. Shipments to Kansas were searched for arms and
all found were confiscated.
In Kansas the "Bogus"
legislature had purged its Free-State members and had
enacted a more rigorous slave code than existed in the many
Southern slave states. A mob led by Sheriff Samuel Jones of
Westport and U. S. Marshal Israel B. Donalson had pillaged
the Free-State settlement of Lawrence. The grand jury at
Lecompton had indicted Free-State leaders for treason
following a doctrine newly devised by Judge Lecompte,
[1] and some of them had been arrested and confined,
awaiting a trial that never was held. Guerrilla warfare
resulted in the territory, while the country seethed with
the partisanship of a presidential election campaign.
In time a measure of peace
came to Kansas with a new governor, John W. Geary. He wanted
to be impartial, but such a policy quickly offended the
Proslavery Democrats who owned the legislative and judicial
departments of the territory, so his tenure was brief.
The tide of Northern
emigration was stimulated as a result of all this stress,
while help for the slaveholders of western Missouri
diminished gradually.
At the time Kansas
territory was opened for settlement the people of western
Missouri, where slave sentiment was exceedingly strong, took
possession of the most favorable locations along the west
bank of the Missouri on the border where their towns mostly
came to be situated. The Free-State emigrants who came from
longer distances, settled in the valley of the Kansas river
and in the southeastern part of the territory. At that time
the great national highway to the emigrants west from St.
Louis. Eastern people who came by overland routes had to
travel the Missouri roads, where citizens, feeling their
slave property in jeopardy, were quite hostile, and the
Northerners arriving by steamboat found all of the Missouri
river towns controlled by their foes, even those Kansas
settlements on the west bank of the river.
Need for a friendly portal
for antislavery partisans to enter and leave Kansas was
increasingly felt so that some leaders at Lawrence conducted
a survey of the entire west bank of the Missouri river by
steamboat, from the mouth of the Kansas river to the
Nebraska line. At a point six miles above the mouth of the
Kansas river, on Wyandotte Indian land, they found a fine
natural rock ledge where the river ran along the bank six to
twelve feet deep, making a convenient landing. Plenty of
wood and rock were at hand for building purposes and fertile
land was adjacent.
At that time planners were
fashioning towns to their individual tastes at many places
in Kansas, so a company was formed, a name selected and
promotion commenced. The business affairs of the promoters
were handled by Charles Robinson, of Lawrence, and Abelard
Guthrie, whose wife was a Wyandotte Indian. Guthrie
skillfully secured the necessary land for the town by
purchase from his wife's fellow tribesman. In casting about
for a picturesque name for the new city, he was able to
suggest Mrs. Guthrie's Indian given name of "Quindaro," a
common Wyandotte word, meaning a "bundle of sticks" and
interpreted by the adage, "in union there is strength."
The new townsite was
surveyed and laid out in proper municipal style in December,
1856, by O. A. Bassett. The principal streets were the
levee, fronting on the Missouri river, and Kanzas avenue,
running south at a right angle from the levee. There was a
"Main Street" adjoining the levee. East and west streets
were numbered "Third to Tenth" and north and south streets
were named "A to Y." On paper it was great, but the printed
map failed to disclose the steep cliff just back of the
levee; most of the townsite being up on the high ground.
Many river towns were so planned and the hill wasn't much
higher than the one just back of the landing at Kansas
City.
Ground was broken on
January 1, 1857, and Quindaro became a reality with
remarkable publicity in the Eastern newspapers. On May 13,
1857, a weekly newspaper was launched. It, too, was named by
a Wyandotte word, Chindowan (with the accent on the
last syllable), meaning "leader." The editor was J. M.
Walden, a former minister, who in later life became a
Methodist bishop. Mrs. C. I. H. Nichols, formerly editor of
The Windham County Democrat of Vermont, later a
famous lecturer and woman's-rights leader, was his assistant
editor.
The first issue of the new
paper reporter that trees had been removed from several
acres of the townsite, that grading of the hill to the wharf
at Kansas avenue had progressed so that heavy loads might be
hauled on the road leading into the territory without
difficulty. Thirty to forty houses had been built and
occupied. A schoolhouse had been opened on May 3, which also
served as a church on Sunday, and 16 business houses were in
the process of erection. The Quindaro House, the second
largest hotel in the territory, was opened; the town was
well supplied with two hotels, two commission houses, a
sawmill of 5,000 feet per day capacity (later 20,000), a
stoneyard, carpenter shop, land agencies, surveyor,
builders, cabinetmakers and blacksmiths. The Odd Fellows and
Masonic fraternities announced their meetings. [2]
The blacksmiths seem to have used coal mined right on the
levee. By August, the first brick house was under
construction on "P" street, the bricks having been burned on
the townsite, and soon a brickyard was established.
[3]
One of the earliest
problems of the new town was to gain recognition by the
steamboats. These crafts were Missouri owned and operated
and their officers refused to stop at Quindaro or even
denied that such a place existed. Later they actively sought
to get passengers to pass up Quindaro to land at Leavenworth
or Kansas City, both Proslavery towns. Fares were charged
accordingly. Passage from Leavenworth to Quindaro was $3.00
but from Leavenworth to Kansas City, a longer trip cost only
$2.50. A threat to start a Free-State steamboat line from
Alton, Ill., to Kansas broke up this racket as the
Proslavery boatmen didn't want such competition. The profit
motive prevailed over principle --- this may be the
key to the failure of the entire Proslavery movement in
Kansas. These steamboatmen later came to regard Quindaro as
the best landing on the river, and traffic there was heavy.
For instance, 36 steamboat landings were made at the levee
during one week of May, 1857. [4] In July the paper
reported the steamer Polar Star made the regular run from
Fort Leavenworth to Jefferson City in 24 hours and 30
minutes, making all her usual mail and freight landings en
route. [5] A short time later the paper listed 55
steamboats operating on the Missouri at that time.
These boats brought a vast
quantity of merchandise consigned to Lawrence and other
Free-State towns to the Quindaro levee. A road was built for
31 miles across the Delaware reservation to Lawrence. The
Chindowan reported May 23, 1857, that it had been
graded two miles out from town 20 feet wide, and that three
streams, the Wolf, Stranger, and Muddy creeks, were spanned
by substantial bridges. A line of stages operated by
(Alfred) Robinson, Walter and Co., proprietors, left
Quindaro each morning, on the six-hour trip to Lawrence. The
first 15 miles wound through heavy timber to a half-way
house, kept by Delaware Indians, where lunch was not exactly
relished by some of the fastidious travelers. The fare for
all this luxury was $3.00. Another road projected south to
Osawatomie across the Kansas river, three miles south, where
the Quindaro company maintained a free ferry. This road
intersected the Westport road at the new town of Shawnee.
Later a stage line ran from Wyandotte to Lawrence by way of
Quindaro.
The printing press and
equipment of The Kansas News of Emporia was purchased
in Cincinnati, consigned to Quindaro, and hauled across the
country by four yoke of oxen in May, 1857. Jacob Stotler,
who conducted the operation, said that Quindaro looked like
a mining town at the bottom of a canyon. He got the freight
loaded and hauled it about three miles the first day. That
night the oxen wandered away and the entire following day
was spent hunting them. Finally an Indian located them about
sundown. Stotler tramped back to Quindaro and helped set
type on the Chindowan to pay for his supper. The trip
from Lawrence to Emporia took eight days. [6]
In 1857 no daily papers
were published along the Missouri river nearer than St.
Louis. There the Democrat and Republican were
great daily papers that sold for ten cents on the river
boats and had wide circulation in Kansas territory. Every
Free-State partisan swore by the old reliable
Democrat, the Proslavery man's politics could be told
by the fact that he always read the Republican.
Occasionally someone would buy the wrong paper but after
reading a few paragraphs would drop it like a hot
potato.
During that first year
Quindaro grew amazingly. In August when the town was only
eight months old, the Chindowan reported a population
of 600 living in more than 100 buildings, 20 being of stone.
[7] The Quindaro House, with 45 rooms, four and
one-half stories high, was at 1, 3, 5 Kansas avenue, Colby
and Parker, proprietors; while competition was furnished by
the Wyandotte House across the street, about half as large,
E. O. Zane, proprietor. Several thousand dollars had spent
in grading Kansas avenue running back up the hill from the
river. P. Caswell, the contractor, had with some ingenuity
contrived cars on an iron track to haul away the excavated
debris. George Park, of Parkville, Mo., had faith in this
enterprise and was building a stone hotel, 26 x 70 feet and
five stories high. The Methodists and Congregationalists
were both constructing churches. Albert D. Richardson, a New
York newspaper correspondent, spent much time in town and
was induced to lecture to the Literary Society on "Out
West." [8] Twelve hundred letters passed through the
post office in 18 days of June, 1857, and the revenue was
$1,200 per year. [9]
Quindaro took vast
municipal pride in its cannon, its sawmill, and its ferry.
O. A. Bassett, who surveyed the town, O. H. Macauley and
James Redpath had been members of a Free-State party en
route from Wisconsin in 1856. The Democratic administration
knew of the expedition and knew that among other armament it
was equipped with a six-pounder brass cannon, so
arrangements were made to waylay the party. Coming across
Iowa and Nebraska, the emigrants were warned and the cannon
was buried near Nemaha Falls, Neb., not far from the Kansas
line. It was said that Macauley was the only person who knew
exactly where the cannon had been hidden. A public meeting
was held one evening of July, 1857, and a committee was
formed to make the "necessary arrangements" to bring the
cannon in. It took several weeks and some hunting to find
it, but finally on August 25, 1857, the committee arrived
with its prize. A royal celebration ensued, the cannon was
christened "Lazarus," and several rounds were fired on the
levee. [10] It was given a home in Macauley's
warehouse and used in many a celebration thereafter, to the
chagrin of neighboring towns, who had no cannon. Several
years later a "committee" from Wyandotte quietly borrowed
the cannon. When the Civil War came, it was taken on July
20, 1861, by Col. William Weer to Kansas City to be used
against the Confederates, and to be returned after the
emergency had passed. It saw active service during the
defense of Lexington, where it was captured after a four-day
siege by the army under Gen. Sterling Price who took it
south when he retreated, and it was last heard of in the
fortifications at Corinth, Miss.
The sawmill grew to be the
largest in Kansas. The town company got it from the Emigrant
Aid Society in exchange for shares in the town. This mill
had been dumped into the river by Border Ruffians and later
salvaged. It had a capacity of 20,000 feet daily and a
forest around it to operate on. Trees that measured 20 feet
in circumference were common on the townsite.
In October, 1857, a
Quindaro to Parkville ferry capable of carrying 200 tons, 26
x 100 feet, with two engines and side wheels was put in
service. Capt. Otis Webb was skipper of this craft which
bore his name and replace an earlier, less efficient ferry
boat. You may be sure the event was properly celebrated by
firing the cannon. The ferry was financed by selling shares,
there being still in existence in the files of the State
Historical Society a receipt dated September 5, 1857, to
Alfred Gray for $75.00 in assessment upon one share of the
Parkville and Quindaro Ferry Company.
On March 30, 1857, the
Quindaro company by Abelard Guthrie employed one Aaron W.
Merrill to keep a free ferry across the Kansas river, four
miles below the Delaware ferry on the road from Quindaro to
Osawatomie. This location was just south of present City
Park in Kansas City and was called the Eureka ferry. Merrill
was to receive $100 per month for faithful performance of
this contract which became the subject of a suit against the
company when evil days befell Quindaro.
The Chindowan of
October 3, 1857, refers to the steamer Minnie Belle, built
for travel on the Kansas river. This boat was a marvel for
it only drew seven inches of water and was captained by
James W. Davis. Even this shallow draught must have not been
adequate for the paper later reported that it took the boat
four and one-half days to go to Lawrence. [11]
Another Quindaro boat in
the Kansas river trade was the Lightfoot. It had a draught
of 18 inches which probably made its use in the Kansas river
seasonal.
During 1857 Quindaro had
the brightest prospects of any town on the river. Each share
of stock entitled its owner to ten lots and their location
was determined by a drawing, the company reserving wood and
timber on the lots. Several hundred shares were sold and
land grew rapidly in value. Business lots on the levee sold
for $500 to $750 and on Kansas avenue $500 to $1,250, and
were considered dirt cheap. The town's future was advertised
far and wide across the North and many New Englanders
invested through the influence of Charles Robinson. Railroad
fever was a factor. The Pacific railroad had been built as
far west as Jefferson City, Mo., with two trains daily,
where the Lightening Line of steamboats connected to carry
the mail up the river to Leavenworth. Quindaro men joined
with George Park of Parkville to organize the Quindaro,
Parkville and Grand River railroad to connect with the
Hannibal & St. Joseph railroad, the building westward
across Missouri. Quindaro was later dropped from the name.
The line was surveyed and projected across the Missouri
river at Parkville and on into southern Kansas.
Park had an article printed
in the Chicago Daily Journal, urging the building of this
line so that merchants of Chicago might take hold of the
vast trades of the Southwest. In May, 1858, the Quindaro
steamer, Otis Webb, carried a load of citizens to Wyandotte,
a rival town founded about the same time, for a railroad
mass meeting. They managed to hit the Wyandotte ferry as
they came into the landing and put it out of commission for
several days. [12]
Life was pleasant and
interesting in Quindaro. Dances were frequent. Lodges and
churches met regularly. The Chindowan of June 27,
1857, proudly proclaimed that J. V. Fitch served ice cream
and soda at his store. The Literary Society was popular and
provided regular lectures, while a library committee offered
more than 200 volumes of good reading. J. J. Barker offered
his services as photographer, and a lady of the Delaware
nation rode her horse into town wearing a red petticoat!
During the summer and winter of 1857, V. J. Lane tells that
S. C. Smith, Charles Chadwick, Owen A. Bassett, A. D.
Richardson, J. M. Walden, P. T. Colby, G. W. Veale, C. L.
Gorton, Dr. Buddington, Alfred Gray, A. J. Rowell, J. G.
Fisk, and himself organized a Shanghai court and made it a
rule to arrest someone every night and try him for some
alleged misdemeanor. When the court opened the sheriff
brought in the prisoner (intended victim), a jury was
empaneled, the prosecuting attorney was called, and the
court appointed counsel for the prisoner. A regular trial
was had, but the jury invariably found the prisoner guilty
and assessed a fine of a box of cigars or a bushel of
apples. Lane, in his recollections, also tells of tornado
that passed over on the evening of July 4, 1857, and blew
several houses down in Quindaro.
Leavenworth, Quindaro, and
Wyandotte were great rivals for trade. People of Quindaro
referred to Wyandotte as "Y &.," while the latter spoke
of Quindaro as "Hole in the Hill." Politics was a vocation
to be constantly cultivated. Free-State militia were
organized under the Topeka convention and 68 citizens at
Quindaro were enrolled, guarded the election of October 5,
1857, and carried the Wyandotte precinct, where Proslavery
sentiment usually predominated. The Free-State party
captured a clear majority in both houses of the legislature
in spite of election frauds at Delaware, Oxford, and
Kickapoo. In January, 1858, the territorial legislature
chartered the city and a municipal election soon followed.
[13] Two parties, the People's and the Workingmen's,
both endorsed Alfred Gray, who became the first mayor.
[14]
Quindaro formed a
Temperance League. At a meeting in January, 1858, it was
resolved to close the liquor shops in five days, and the
town voted, 77 to 25, to make liquor illegal. [15]
This induced many emigrants, especially women, to prefer
Quindaro to other towns. Citizens wanting to "go on a spree"
had to go to Wyandotte or patronize the local bootleggers.
It was soon discovered that whisky was hidden in a hollow
west of the Quindaro House which prompted 30 women to
present a petition to the town council. A meeting was called
and the offending barrel was hauled from beneath its owner's
bed and spilled out in the street. [16]
In a letter to the
Wyandotte Gazette in 1882, Mrs. C. I. H. Nichols recalls
that many slaves took the underground railroad at Quindaro
for the interior of the territory and freedom. Just west of
town in the bottom land was the home of a bachelor who was
dedicated to "emancipation without proclamation," so that
his place was called "Uncle Tom's Cabin" by the residents.
Of the many slaves who took refuge there, only one was ever
taken back to Missouri and many escaped to the comparative
safety of the interior. She told the story of a poor fellow
who escaped from near Parkville. On learning he had been
sold South, he had tried to get away but was caught and
manacled. Another slave assisted him and he managed to draw
one foot out of the encircling iron, bringing with him the
chain attached to the other foot. Afraid to take a boat at
Parkville, they found an old dugout, paddled up the river
for ten miles before they could steal a boat, then drifted
down to Quindaro. A few days later in two large dry goods
boxes they were freighted to Lawrence. If they could get by
Six-Mile tavern, the critical part of the journey was
past.

Upper right: A view of the Missouri river
from the site of old Quindaro, at the northern edge of
present Kansas City, Kan. A few bits of masonry obsured
by heavy foliage is about all the remains of this once
booming town. Lower right: Six-Mile tavern, west
of Quindaro on the stage road to Leavenworth, as it looks
today. Left: the hanging oak near Six-Mile
tavern.
A share in the City of Quindaro made out to the
Rev. John G. Pratt.
Mrs. Nichols also told of
Fielding Johnson bringing a colored girl, Caroline, to her
home where she was hidden in the cistern at he very time 14
slave hunters from Missouri were camped in Quindaro Park.
The following day Caroline and another girl were conveyed to
Leavenworth on the road to freedom. [17]
The Chindowan often
listed arrivals at the hotels and names of other Argonauts
who passed through the town. Gov. Robert J. Walker made his
first stop in Kansas at Quindaro and spoke briefly to about
200 people. Sen. Henry Wilson, of Massachusetts, was on the
same steamer, The New Lucy, and was accorded a much finer
reception. Wilson went off to Lawrence in company with
Charles Robinson. Governor Walker came again in the falloff
1857, but very few citizens consented to an introduction; he
was permitted to enjoy the quiet of his stateroom and left
in a few hours.
Many homey touches are
recorded in the newspaper. A map of the Delaware Trust Lands
to be offered for sale at Osawkee on July 15, 1857, was
printed for Chadwick and Bless, land agents. Apparently no
copy has survived. Due probably to inebriation, several
citizens got lost on the road from Wyandotte on the evening
of July 4. The first marriage in Quindaro was of Peter
Nelson to Lavicia Lyle, or Rochester, Mo., on July 23, 1857.
That fall the woods were full of hazelnuts and Mr. Beckwith,
who resided on a farm adjoining the town, successfully
raised a Chinese sugar cane called "sorgho," which made
excellent syrup. The Lightning steamer, Tropic, sank near
Waverly, Mo. Samuel Stover, of Wyandotte, was shot in the
face by a stranger near Mr. Cotter's, but would recover. An
Indian by the name of Mundy fatally shot himself while
hunting in the bottom near Quindaro. Shawnee lands for sale
at $1.25 per acre; Col. H. T. Titus brutally assaulted S. C.
Pomeroy with a club in a courtroom at Kansas City. (It was
unsafe for Free-State men to transact business there. Why
did Kansas emigrants build up and sustain the cities of
their oppressors in Missouri?)
The spring of 1858 saw
Quindaro's fine prospects slowly begin to fade, for the
first year of Quindaro's existence saw most of its
improvements made. Alfred Gray told of owning several lots
on the hill and being offered five 20-dollar gold pieces for
one of them in June, 1858. He turned the offer down, sure
that the buyer would pay $150, the same price the town
company was asking for its residence lots. He mournfully
recalled that the offer was never raised or even repeated
and the buyer left town with the gold still in his
pocket.
In the same month the
newspaper had difficulty due to adverse economic influences.
Publication was suspended, and Editor J. M. Walden returned
to Ohio. A great financial panic had drawn the money out of
the Western states, where the resulting depression was most
sever and prolonged. One of the causes of this panic was the
extended speculation in railroads and in towns such as
Quindaro. The city suffered because the Free-State party no
longer needed its port as an entryway into the territory,
for it now controlled the legislature and it became evident
that slavery could not flourish in the Kansas climate. The
rivalry of Quindaro had caused a rebirth of every Proslavery
Missouri river town in Kansas except Kickapoo. Leavenworth,
Wyandotte, and Kansas City quickly became Free-State,
equal-rights towns. Hard times continued through 1859, when
Wyandotte County was formed, and Wyandotte City, only a few
miles away, became the county seat. Most of the county was
Indian land and not subject to taxation at the time of its
formation, which cast the burden of the cost of the county
government on the two towns, Wyandotte and Quindaro.
Up to that time Wyandotte
City couldn't support a barber and some of it's citizens
were in the habit of walking to Quindaro to be shaved. In
its heyday the Wyandotte Gazette confessed that there was
more business in Quindaro in a day that in Wyandotte in a
week.
In 1858 there were few new
arrivals and business came to a standstill. George Park's
fine hotel progressed to three stories, was then roofed
over, but never finished inside. The churches and the town
company kept hope for a while, contributing most of the
building in that year. A Congregational church was dedicated
on January 27,1858, and the Methodist Episcopal church, in
the residential section, was dedicated on April 25, 1858, by
Bishop E. S. Janes, of New York City, who was returning from
the annual conference at Topeka. [18] Services had
been held within its walls before it was completed, the
first sermon having been preached by the Rev. Ephraim Nute,
of Lawrence, on September 13, 1857. The preacher assigned to
this charge was Richard P. Duvall, who served the Wyandotte,
Quindaro, and Delaware churches.
As its income stopped due
to these hard times, the town company was unable to meet
expenses. Creditors sued individual members of the company
and enforced their claims by taking unsold lots. Abelard
Guthrie, who had invested in land and was considered a rich
man, lost it all because of company debts. In his journal,
he stated that he owned more than one half of the stock in
Quindaro Company. He became very much embittered by his
misfortune, blaming Charles Robinson, who came out of the
situation in much better financial shape. It is impossible
at this late date, with incomplete records available, to
decide the controversies of that time. However, such
documents as have survived, including Guthrie's journal,
cast considerable discredit on Robinson. [19]
Quindaro didn't fall in a
day, the decline took several years and many another Western
town suffered at the same time. Some residents remained
optimistic, hopeful for n upturn and various schemes were
laid for the future. Plans for getting a railroad connection
were almost promising. Guthrie spent much time at Washington
in efforts to secure terminus of the projected Pacific
railroad. Thaddeus Hyatt and Charles Robinson were appointed
agents of the city to promote appropriations of land for the
extension of the Parkville and Grad River railroad to
Quindaro and westward to San Francisco. Two letters of Mary
A. C. Killiam to her aunt and cousin in New Hampshire
survive, which were written in 1859. Her husband operated a
hotel, and she confided that they made a living, "that is
all these hard times in Kansas"; and that John Brown had
been a boarder for several days.
Alfred Gray remained the
most loyal resident. He had been the first mayor and later
served as a member of the state legislature under the
Wyandotte constitution. He became quartermaster of the Fifth
Kansas cavalry, was first secretary of the State Board of
Agriculture, was appointed a commissioner to the Paris
Exposition, and died in 1880 [20] He was also agent
to look after a great deal of property n the derelict town;
he wrote to one nonresident owner on August1, 1861: "You
have no conception of the entire prostration of all kinds of
business [here]." The Civil War really gave Quindaro
its knockout blow. All of the young men left to join the
Union army and business stopped completely. From January 20
to March 12, 1862, the Ninth Kansas Volunteer infantry was
quartered in the empty business buildings and underwent
reorganization to become the Second Kansas cavalry.
[21] Officer control was slack, so the men proceeded
to gut the town, tearing up everything movable for firewood,
leaving a mere shell of the abandoned buildings a prey to
weather, fires, and theft. The lot on which O. H. Macauley
had built his warehouse had cost $1,200; the second floor
had housed the Chindowan, but in the course of time
the building and lot were sold to Alfred Gray for $5.00 and
a pair of Chester White pigs.
Mrs. C. I H. Nichols lived
at Quindaro for about ten years. In 1882 she wrote a series
of reminiscences of the town to the Wyandotte Gazette and
recalls asking Nelson Cobb for the bricks in a chimney of a
house that had burned. "Yes, Mrs. Nichols, if you will steal
them," was his response. One day she was toiling up one of
the hills, picking her way through the underbrush and trash
of the townsite, and came across a man trying to move a
heavy log with several yoke of oxen and much cursing. He
said he never would have come to Kansas, except he heard
"that Mrs. Nichols" lecture in the East about it being such
a smooth, level country. [22]
C.M. Chase wrote a series
of letters to the Sycamore (Ill.) True Republican and
Sentinel. He says: "We visited Quindaro [in 1863]
and found only one family there -- a poor man and a
crazy wife had strayed into the hall of the hotel and
occupied a bunch of rags." In 1873 he revisited the place
and thus reported to the Vermont Union of Lindon, Vt.:
Quindaro was, but now she is not. One store with
a granite front and iron posts stood as good as new and
various other buildings were in good preservation, but
empty. Governor Robinson [Kansas?] Avenue was
graded back into the bluff 75 rods, where it stopped,
leaving an embankment 20 feet high. Small cottonwoods had
spring up in the street and the owls were making
selection of choice localities for places of adobe. The
solitary family of 1863 even has abandoned the place.
The legislature of 1862
repealed the act which incorporated Quindaro, and the town
company was officially put out of business. Later the plat
of the city was vacated, but most of it is now within the
city limits of Kansas City.
In 1896 a list was compiled
of early residents still living in Wyandotte county. The
following were recorded from Quindaro, together with the
dates of their arrival:
1849 |
James Zane |
1855 |
George Zane |
|
Loisa McIntyre |
|
Elisha Sorter |
|
Mrs. Effie Sorter |
|
Henry E. Sorter |
|
Mrs. Charles Morasch |
1857 |
Roger Sherman |
1858 |
Helen Grafke |
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R. M. Gray |
1859 |
Mrs. S. G. Gray |
1860 |
D. R. Emmons |
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Fred Sorter |
Dr. George M. Gray, who is
still living, came to Quindaro at the age of two in 1858
with the family of R. M. Gray. His father was a merchant
there and brother of Alfred Gray.
Hardly anything that
remains of the old business section of Quindaro now. A pipe
line company has done grading there recently and covered up
some of the rubbish and ruins which is all that endures of
the proud hope of its founders.
Just west of Quindaro on
the stage road to Leavenworth was Six-Mile House, a part of
which is still in use. It was built in 1860 of polished
black walnut as a tavern and became an important stop on the
old stage route from Independence to Leavenworth. It was so
named because it was just six miles from the Wyandotte ferry
by the road, and is now one of the most fascinating
buildings in the county. The land where it stood was
acquired by J. A. Bartles on execution from its original
Wyandotte Indian owner. Bartles and his son, Theodore, ran
the notorious tavern.
As originally built, it
consisted of nine rooms and two stories, with a wine cellar
and secret closets. In 1894 its owner, James K. P. Barker,
had cut it in two. The front part was moved several yards to
the east where it is now the home of Edna Williams Jarvis
and is designated as 4960 Leavenworth road. The back
section, or the "L," was moved about 200 feet east to become
part of a barn, which has only recently been torn down.
Barker then built a larger modern home on the former site
which still stands. A fine well where travelers and stock of
the stage line found refreshment still exists near the
roadway which has become Kansas Highway No. 5. Andreas
mentions the name of the stage line -- Kimball, Moore
& Co. -- which ran from Westport to Weston in 1857
by way of Six-Mile and Leavenworth.
The eastern part of
Wyandotte county was then quite rough, with deep ravines and
steep hills, the whole covered with forest. The land
belonged to members of the Wyandotte and Delaware tribes,
and except for small clearings and the Kansas river bottom
land; the balance was a tangle of matted vines, underbrush,
and heavy timber. This was ideal timber. This was ideal
cover for bushwhackers, guerrillas, and deserters, who made
existence of the inhabitants a terror during the Civil War
era when most young men were away in the army.
On August 3, 1861, the
Wyandotte Gazette summed up the situation: thirteen murders
had been committed in the county in the past two years; none
had been punished. Other papers were full of accounts of
robbery, horse theft, and kidnaping of free Negroes by
visitors from across the Missouri. The citizens of Wyandotte
met this critical situation with a people's court which
often administered punishment by horsewhipping and
hanging.
Six-Mile House became a
well known rendezvous for vicious gangs. On July 17, 1862, a
mass meeting was held by the citizens at the courthouse in
Wyandotte to consider a means of putting out the fire. A
"Committee of Safety" was formed with the avowed object of
tearing down Six-Mile House as being a den of red-legs. Col.
A. C. Davis was also castigated for the conduct of his
regiment at Quindaro during the winter of 1861-1862. He had
allowed his troopers to go across into Missouri to steal
horses as well as destroy much property in the town. The
next day this committee journeyed out to see Theodore
Bartles, proprietor of Six-Mile, but were not shown the
usual hospitality of the place. Bartles had heard of the
projected visit and its purpose, had ridden to Fort
Leavenworth to see the commandant, Gen. James G. Blunt. So
the committee was surprised to find a company of soldiers
from the fort encamped around Six-Mile. Blunt ordered that
there be no destruction of property and the members of the
committee were taken to the fort and required to give bond
to keep the peace. Bartles was later arrested in the
vicinity. Col. A. C. Davis had already left the county.
On December 18, 1862, a man
named Smith was shot at Six-Mile House by a posse looking
for horses stolen near Westport. Several companions were
taken prisoner.
The Gazette also reported
on July 16, 1863, a party of bushwhackers crossed the
Missouri river above Parkville with the intent to burn
Wyandotte and Six-Mile. Some of these marauders were caught
and taken to Kansas City for trial.
William E. Connelley in his
Quantrill and the Border Wars, tells of a long acquaintance
with Theodore Bartles, whom he describes as of the better
class of "Red Legs." Bartles admitted to Connelley that he
was a famous shot with the revolver; he had even defeated
"Wild Bill" Hickock in many a contest of marksmanship!
Bartles also is almost the sole authority for the curious
tale of an attempt to warn the people of Lawrence of the
Quantrill raid on August 21, 1863, sending Pelathe, a
Shawnee Indian, from Six-Mile House on a midnight dash
across the Delaware reservation. Bartles even finished a
fine thoroughbred horse for the desperate venture for
Pelathe got to the Kansas river across from Lawrence just as
the raiders fired the first shots in the doomed city.
[23] I have been unable to verify this story from
any contemporary source and if Pelathe followed the
well-traveled road he didn't break any records.
After the war banditry
continued in the locality. The paper of November 11, 1865,
reported robbery in the vicinity. The next week it was
further outraged because Dr. J. B. Welborn and wife, who
later platted the area and gave it their name, were shot as
they were sitting at home one evening by a charge of
buckshot fired through the living room window. Both later
recovered.
Old-timers can still show
the tree near the site of the old hostelry where, during the
war, a traveler and his son were hanged after being robbed
by the bushwhackers. Sixty years ago neighbors of the tavern
were convinced that ghosts of these victims still haunted
the vicinity but the present owner will have no part of
these tales. She is very gracious to visitors and will show
the old bar with an arch over it where liquid inspiration
was sold. Many a lurid adventure would entertain us if those
old walls could reveal the past.
The Wyandotte Gazette of
December 30, 1881, reviewed the history of Six-Mile, as the
locality around the tavern became known. It recalled that 15
years before, Six-Mile was quite a business center. It had a
church, school house, blacksmith shop, a store, a hotel and
a tobacco factory. The article went on to say that the
Six-Mile post office had been moved to Braman Hill, one mile
south.
"Young America" was the
picturesque title given to the trading post on the road from
Quindaro to Leavenworth about a mile beyond Six-Mile Tavern.
Although the trader carried a stock of merchandise, "grog"
was his fastest moving commodity. In his journal Abelard
Guthrie tells of stopping there -- that Indians in
various degrees of intoxication were lying about as though a
battle had just concluded. [24]
Notes
ALAN W. FARLEY, of Kansas City, an attorney, is first
vice-president of the Kansas Historical Society.
1. This was the doctrine of
constructive treason. Lecompte is said to have included this
doctrine in his instructions to the jury. --- W. A.
Phillips, The Conquest of Kansas (Boston, 1856),
p.269. However, the judge denied it. --- Kansas
Weekly Herald, Leavenworth, September 27, 1856. For a
discussion of this question, see James C. Malin, "Judge
Lecompte and the 'Sack of Lawrence,' May 21, 1856," in
The Kansas Historical Quarterly, v. 20 (August,
1953), pp. 473, 491.
2. The Quindaro
Chindowan, May 13, 1857.
3. Ibid., August 1,
1857.
4. Ibid., May 23,
1857.
5. Ibid., July 4,
1857.
6. Emporia Weekly
News, February 23, 1882.
7. Quindaro
Chindowan, August 15, 1857.
8. Ibid., February
6, 1858.
9. Ibid., July 4,
1857; January 23, 1858.
10. Ibid. August 29,
1857.
11. Ibid. March 13,
1858.
12. Ibid., May 22,
1858.
13. Prairie Laws of
Kansas . . ., 1858, p. 254.
14. Quindaro
Chindowan, January 30, February 6, 1858.
15. Ibid., January
23, 1858.
16. Wyandotte
Gazette, December 22, 1882.
17. Ibid., December
29, 1882.
18. Quindaro
Chindowan, January 30, April 24, 1858.
19. "Diary" of Abelard
Guthrie. --- See entry of February 16, 1858. A copy of
the diary is in the manuscript division of the Kansas Historical Society.
20. Quarterly Report of
the State Board of Agriculture for the Quarter Ending Dec.
31, 1879, pp. 161, 162.
21. A. T. Andreas and W. G.
Cutler, History of the State of Kansas (Chicago,
1883), p. 182.
22. Wyandotte
Gazette, June 16, 1882.
23. William E. Connelley,
Quantrill and the Border Wars (Cedar Rapids, 1910),
pp. 319, 332-334.
24. "Diary" of Abelard
Guthrie, entry of March 15, 1859.
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